Looks like you sprayed a heavy coat and caused the layers underneath to run. Topcoat can mess up metallics if you aren’t careful. I normally spray 3 mist coats and blow air in between, before doing the final wet coat. This gives a “barrier” to the pieces, so the wet coat is less likely to reactivate the paint layers.
I paint cars for a living. Painting plastic robots should not be this challenging for me. But all the techniques are different. Are you airbrushing topcoat?
The vast majority of my painting and topcoating is done via airbrush, but I keep some spray cans on hand for large pieces and special cases.
I don’t know much about painting cars, but I’d venture a guess that procedures are well-documented to minimize mistakes. While you can find plenty of info online for model painting, the procedure and technique can change depending on a variety of factors (products used, painting method, temperature, humidity, etc). What brand/type of topcoat are you using? When in doubt, it’s best to test on a spoon or piece of scrap runner before painting the model.
The main thing I’ll add is you can spray lacquer top coats over acrylic paint, as long you you give it at least 24 hours to dry.
As far as what paints are what types, acrylic and enamel paints are usually labeled as such. If the label doesn’t have enamel or acrylic (or water-based) on the label, it’s probably lacquer, but you can always check online to be sure. This is important especially for Tamiya paints, since they make all 3 types. Paint markers are normally alcohol-based acrylic, unless specified otherwise. Gundam Markers, including the fine-tipped panel liners, are acrylic. Pour-type Gundam Markers and Tamiya Panel Line Accent are enamel.
I think the fact that paint markers (including Gundam Markers) are alcohol-based needs to be emphasized, because it means that using them on top of anything else will just ruin everything. You might be able to get away with it if you use the Gundam Marker airbrush adapter and stick with light coats, but as a general rule of thumb paint markers should be your base if you plan on doing multiple layers.
Yeah, alcohol is a solvent, and can certainly mess with other paints. That said, I do use them for detailing on my painted builds, but I spray a gloss coat first to protect the paint layers.
Looks like you sprayed a heavy coat and caused the layers underneath to run. Topcoat can mess up metallics if you aren’t careful. I normally spray 3 mist coats and blow air in between, before doing the final wet coat. This gives a “barrier” to the pieces, so the wet coat is less likely to reactivate the paint layers.
I paint cars for a living. Painting plastic robots should not be this challenging for me. But all the techniques are different. Are you airbrushing topcoat?
The vast majority of my painting and topcoating is done via airbrush, but I keep some spray cans on hand for large pieces and special cases.
I don’t know much about painting cars, but I’d venture a guess that procedures are well-documented to minimize mistakes. While you can find plenty of info online for model painting, the procedure and technique can change depending on a variety of factors (products used, painting method, temperature, humidity, etc). What brand/type of topcoat are you using? When in doubt, it’s best to test on a spoon or piece of scrap runner before painting the model.
On the piece pictured, I used XGM08 for the gold, testors green met flake, and Mr. Super Clear Gloss
You may want to try Aqueous top coat if spray cans are your only option. It should be less harsh on acrylics.
I never knew the difference between them. I’ve never been able to find any information on what products are compatible. Even within paint brands
This page has some pointers on paint compatibility: https://www.airbrushmodeler.com/model-paint-compatibility-chart/
The main thing I’ll add is you can spray lacquer top coats over acrylic paint, as long you you give it at least 24 hours to dry.
As far as what paints are what types, acrylic and enamel paints are usually labeled as such. If the label doesn’t have enamel or acrylic (or water-based) on the label, it’s probably lacquer, but you can always check online to be sure. This is important especially for Tamiya paints, since they make all 3 types. Paint markers are normally alcohol-based acrylic, unless specified otherwise. Gundam Markers, including the fine-tipped panel liners, are acrylic. Pour-type Gundam Markers and Tamiya Panel Line Accent are enamel.
Here’s the Mr. Hobby 2025 catalog, which outlines their different paint lines and has some tips on usage: https://www.mr-hobby.com/en/dl/catalog
Note: The Mr. Color line uses acrylic pigments, but is a solvent-based acrylic, so it should be treated as lacquer.
I think the fact that paint markers (including Gundam Markers) are alcohol-based needs to be emphasized, because it means that using them on top of anything else will just ruin everything. You might be able to get away with it if you use the Gundam Marker airbrush adapter and stick with light coats, but as a general rule of thumb paint markers should be your base if you plan on doing multiple layers.
Yeah, alcohol is a solvent, and can certainly mess with other paints. That said, I do use them for detailing on my painted builds, but I spray a gloss coat first to protect the paint layers.
Thanks for the info