I have a bed that looks like this, doesn’t have legs. I have a bed that looks like this, doesn't have legs.

I was looking at bed risers, but they’re aimed for beds with legs. Also, the risers make the bed rise too high for my needs.

I only need to make the bed rise for about 2-inches so I can use an overbed table like this.

  • magnetosphere@kbin.social
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    7 months ago

    Maybe finding a differently designed table is the way to go. Perhaps someone makes one where the base is intended to be tucked under the box spring, for example.

    Maybe attaching the table directly to your bed frame is the answer, rather than raising your bed.

    Regardless, don’t restrict yourself to Amazon. Look at websites for medical supply companies. I would expect them to have more varied solutions.

    EDIT:
    Maybe something like this https://www.medline.com/product/Pivot-Top-Steel-Base-Overbed-Tables/Overbed-Tables/Z05-PF08581?question=overbed%20table

    Disclaimers: I don’t know what your budget is, or what country you live in. Yeah, it sucks that the website makes you log in to see prices, but at least it’s Medline. They’re a big name.

    • magnetosphere@kbin.social
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      7 months ago

      This is probably the best solution I’ve seen so far.

      I’m surprisingly, inexplicably invested in this problem.

      • QualifiedKitten@kbin.social
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        7 months ago

        Definitely the most low tech solution, but I could imagine reasons why it might not be a good solution. Sharing the bed with another human seems like a pretty valid argument against this style.

        As a random tangent, I’m signed up for Google Opinion Rewards, and I got a survey today that was asking me about my search for this. Some of the questions were so awkward to answer because I was like, “I was just trying to help an internet homie on lemny solve their troubles, I don’t know!”

  • Death_Equity@lemmy.world
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    7 months ago

    The big question that prevents the best answer from being obvious is how the existing bed frame is constructed.

    If the material is a compressed sawdust wood and that is the material supporting the entire load, like Ikea stuff, then you shouldn’t reduce the contact area with the floor too much. Simply notching the frame with a gentle radius in the area you need the legs to go under the bed would work, the smaller the amount of material removed, the better. So two half circles would be better than one 24" long rectangle with radiused corners. That could be done with a rotary tool or a fretsaw if you don’t have more appropriate tools to minimize tear-out. You would want to cover the cuts with some veneer to prevent the legs from eroding the frame.

    • abbadon420@lemm.ee
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      7 months ago

      Put some screws in it to prevent it from slipping and you’ve got yourself a bed on legs

    • Death_Equity@lemmy.world
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      7 months ago

      If the bed is only supported with compressed sawdust lumber, reducing the load points would lead to failure.

  • OhmsLawn@lemmy.world
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    7 months ago

    Already commented about raising the bed. Here’s another idea.

    Remove the top of the desk from the bottom and rotate it 180°, then reinsert. Put a heavy weight on the foot to stabilize, then cantelever the desk out over the bed.

  • Mr_Blott@lemmy.world
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    7 months ago

    2 X bed lengths of 2x2, 2 X bed widths of 2x2. Lay them underneath the edges, preferably glued

    Really simple idea that’s difficult to put into words easily but handy folk will know what I mean

    • MrZee@lemm.ee
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      7 months ago

      They should not do this without checking where the bed is supported on the floor. Your method only lifts the perimeter of the bed. It is very likely that the bed also rests on the floor down the center line of the bed or at other spots within the perimeter. If they only prop up the perimeter of the bed, it is liable to collapse in the center.

  • yokonzo@lemmy.world
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    7 months ago

    I know people are saying like bricks and wood and stuff, but if you don’t care how it looks, reams of paper are cheap and customizable, and even stable if you keep them in the plastic wrap and just slide out what you don’t need

  • The Pantser@lemmy.world
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    7 months ago

    Probably be easier to remove 2 inches from the table. Take to a welder and have them cut a chunk out of the middle.

    • counselwolf@lemmy.world
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      7 months ago

      The legs of the table need to go under the bed.

      Currently there’s zero space under the bed, that’s why I need something similar to a riser.

        • magnetosphere@kbin.social
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          7 months ago

          This isn’t a terrible idea like I initially thought. Permanently attach a heavy counterweight to the base of the overbed table and it’ll be more stable.

          I’m hoping OP will be able to find an overbed table for situations where sliding the base under the bed isn’t possible. They can’t be the first person in the world with this problem.

          • snooggums@kbin.social
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            7 months ago

            Without the base being under the table it is just a lever. Sure, people run into this, but you basically need a large and solid frame off to the side to keep it from tipping.

              • snooggums@kbin.social
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                7 months ago

                Placed at the very end it would be evenly balanced at 50 lbs. It would be OK around 20ish lbs that didn’t move, but a little weight plus setting things down would make it wiggle and possibly tip since something moving down has more force than the object itself.

  • guyrocket@kbin.social
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    7 months ago

    Put a hollywood frame under it. You might need to add a wooden frame to the Hollywood frame.

    Then the bed would be on wheels…not sure if you want that but it does make cleaning under it much easier.

  • XeroxCool@lemmy.world
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    7 months ago

    Does the bed have sliders under the corners? I’d look for that first to see if it’s designed to be either truly held up by the length of the beams or if it’s actually already supported by the corners. If it’s just the corners, then you only need risers at the corner. If it’s making full contact with the floor, I’d prefer to continue supporting it almost fully with longer beams, leaving a gap where this stand goes