I got klippy running on my expendable Monoprice Mini Select V1 and was brave enough to convert my CR-10 v2.
Compiled the firmware, flashed the CR-10 from my Raspberry Pi, got Moonraker to connect, etc. Everything looked great. The screen was a little dim (FIRST RED FLAG) but I could navigate with the front panel knob. I started by testing the fans one by one. The part cooling fan was running much slower than I thought it should at 100% fan (SECOND RED FLAG). The hot end fan wasn’t on, and I figured that maybe it wouldn’t turn on until I started heating the hot end.
I put in 150C and nothing happened. The runaway temp protection alarm tripped in klippy (RED FLAG). I bumped the hot end fan and it started spinning, again much slower than it should have (RED FLAG).
I looked at my control box cooling fans and they weren’t spinning either. They’re 12V quiet fans, and my buck converter lights were on, suggesting it was getting power. I did an emergency shut down.
I thought I’d power cycle the CR-10 and see if that helped. When I switched to power it off, it roared to life. Fans started spinning and the screen fully lit.
This entire time, I was powering EVERYTHING on the printer via USB from the Raspberry Pi. I had no idea this was possible. The board was flashed to klipper firmware only being powered by the Pi USB (not sure if that’s the way it’s supposed to be or not).
Anyways, this was a long story to get to the conclusion, but I thought I’d share my journey in case anyone else finds themselves in a similar situation. I should have started troubleshooting after noticing the part cooling fan wasn’t as fast as it should have been. Also, CR-10 screen, MCU, and fans can be powered a little through the USB port.
They sell usb adapters that only have the data pins for this very reason. This is what I bought
Thanks for the link.
It wasn’t an issue with my monoprice, so I might have skipped over some warnings. Then I didn’t read up on all of klipper documentation because I was familiar with it. Maybe I’m warning others about something that’s in the documentation anyways.
The stupid thing is that I’ve had this happen with my Ender 3 Pro when hooked up to pronterface. I had forgotten it had happened.
Oh boy this sucks… I’m running a ender 3v2 with a pi4 and created a custom USB cable without the 5V connected, just to be on the save side.
Creality should really do a better job…
FYI you can tape over the power pins on your USB cable to prevent this in the future.
I think you meant print.