Pixelfed account: https://pxlmo.com/buffy

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Cake day: January 20th, 2024

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  • buffy@lemmy.worldtobirding@lemmy.worldShoo you!
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    3 months ago

    Bear in mind that I’m not a pro and I’m a hobbyist with “entry-level” equipment that I bought more than 10 years ago, even though I started shooting birds the past year or so. I’m commenting to add the perspective of a person who just happens to casually photograph birds on weekends.

    I mostly use a Nikon D3200 APS-C with a kit lens (18-200mm), but I’ve had a Sigma 18-300mm and a Tamron 150-600mm in the past.

    First thing that might surprise you, I end up with way less keepers than a person with reliable autofocus and good low-light performance.

    Second, you do need to get pretty close most of the time, regardless of reach, especially for small birds. Usually, I will take “safer” shots and approach the bird slowly, trying to achieve the frame that I want.

    Here’s an example of a “safer shot”, straight out of camera (using the 18-200mm lens):

    I could walk forward two more steps to improve framing, before I was limited by a creek in front of me,

    The final shot, illustrating how much I usually crop

    Using the same Barn Swallow location as an example, I know from experience that they perch there if I “come early” and wait standing still for long enough (~15 minutes). So that’s what I did when I went there the other day, standing at the same spot, but using the Tamron 150-600mm instead. This time, I didn’t have to crop, since I pre-framed my picture, knowing their approximate size and that they would be there sooner or later.

    There are situations where you need to crop a bit more, especially for birds that are both small and fast.

    It took me close to 30 minutes to take this photo (D3200 + 18-200mm), since the chipping sparrows were zipping around, so I had to patiently wait for one to be within reach. I took exactly 6 pictures, two steps, lay down on the ground, one shot, two steps, lay down on the ground, one shot, repeat. Until the bird flew away.

    I would say 200mm on cropped (300mm full frame equivalent) is when you can start to get good pictures: challenging but doable. 300mm on cropped is fairly nice (450mm equivalent). I don’t think there are crazy improvements from 450mm–600mm, since 450mm is already nice for larger birds like jays or blackbirds, and ~500mm may be too short to reliably capture some smaller songbirds. 800mm or so is the longest I’ve tried and IMO it would be very challenging to have good enough technique to pull it off beyond that.

    Of course, a person with a high-resolution, low-light beast will be able to crop more aggressively than I do. Especially if they just post their pictures online, where basically anything at 2MP or so will do.






  • That is true. I’m glad that here there are people who look after our ecosystem.

    But I like to think that in most cases where hikers disturb the environment, it is due to ignorance. I don’t think most people realize how fragile some habitats are and what is or isn’t okay to do, that’s why signs and barricades and whatnot are important.














  • Thanks for the recommendation! I tried both, but sadly it didn’t work.

    I could extract the ppd file from the MacOS driver, but I still need to substitute some OS specific paths that lead to executable files and icc profiles, like *cupsFilter: "application/vnd.cups-raster 0 /Library/Printers/Canon/BJPrinter/Filters/Raster2CanonIJ/Raster2CanonIJS.bundle/Contents/MacOS/Raster2CanonIJS". Not that many, just two or three. I will most likely try to install the drivers on a MacOS VM and see if I can extract those files and place them in a Linux-specific cups directory (/usr/lib/cups or something). I think so far the odds are even.

    Update: It looks like I have all the binary files with me. Raster2CanonIJS, Command2CanonIJ, the ICC profiles and whatnot. I’m now looking for some guidance on where I should place those files on Linux, that would belong in /Library/Printers/Canon/..., etc. on MacOS.