Lügennudel ._.
Ist tatsächlich keinen Monat her.
Lügennudel ._.
Ist tatsächlich keinen Monat her.
Magic Earth (while not FOSS, it’s privacy oriented though) can do this.
There’s also Transportr, but AFAIK it’s been unmaintained for quite a while now, so it may not work / stop working soon.
My personal gripe with mobile Firefox is searching by using the address bar.
I have had countless times where I put in my search prompt, followed by pressing the little X all the way on the right and thus clearing the address bar. My brain just really expects an enter button to be there.
I think my current record is entering a search term and then clearing it literally directly 3 times in a row, getting more and more confused each time.
Adding to what others here have already said, I’d definitely download Signal and see if you can get any people to move from WhatsApp/Telegram/whatever to Signal.
I don’t know much about iOS apps, but you could look into more privacy focused YouTube clients, and possibly 2FA clients too (although that’s a bit of a controversial topic on iOS AFAIK).
I saw you mention in another comment that you use Amazon Alexa for smart home appliances. Depending on interest in selfhosting / time / motivation to move away from Amazon, you could look into using Home Assistant instead. It even has a Lemmy community: !homeassistant@lemmy.world.
Yep my mistake, I confused ShadowSocks with Cloak.
Nen Kumpel und ich haben mal direkt am Anfang um Australien gekämpft, wir sind beide mit 2 Truppen pro Person da raus gegangen…
Bei uns werden die knallhart eingehalten. Das ist dann so nen ‘boa ja taktisch gesehen wäre das perfekt, aber ich darf dich erst in 8 Runden wieder angreifen’. So bilden sich dann ganz zügig die 2 Großmächte die alle anderen platt machen.
I’m afraid your best bet here will be using WhatsApp.
Edit:
FindMy (for Android) might also be usable for that, but honestly if you just want it to work I’d still vouch for WhatsApp.
Signal supports a single momentary position, but not live location.
Ach, aber dann ist die Reise doch kein Abenteuer mehr.
i use miracast where I can (my TV and Samsung phone support it natively), as it pretty much just works and is a decent protocol. Sadly every phone manufacturer that isn’t Samsung seems to have abandoned it right now, but it is still widely supported in TVs. On Linux, there is the app gnome-network-displays (yes it also works on KDE) to cast your screen over miracast.
Miracast is an actual local streaming protocol (closely related to WiFi Direct). For content streaming the only FOSS standard I am aware of is FCast, but sofar it only is implemented in the GrayJay Android app.
Edit: There is also Deskreen for casting a PC screen.
For casting mobile to PC there is also scrcpy.
This isn’t really casting, but I often find that an HDMI cable (often paired with a USB-C to HDMI dongle) is the simplest and most reliable way to display a phone screen on another monitor (as long as the phone supports DP altmode).
What worked for me at my old school was using a ShadowSocks proxy. Basically what this does, is it takes all your traffic and just makes it look like random https traffic (AFAIK). ShadowSocks is just a proxy. The description fits the Cloak module, mentioned below.
I believe multiple VPNs support this, for me with PIA VPN it’s in the settings under the name “Multi-Hop” (PIA only supports this on the Desktop App, not on mobile).
This technique is pretty much impossible to block, unless you ban every single VPN ShadowSocks Proxy IP. If that is the case for you (chances are practically 0), you could also selfhost ShadowSocks in combination with the Cloak module, however this method is a lot more complicated.
The user reported events don’t directly affect routing AFAIK.
I share your experience though, no problems for me yet. Their FAQ heavily mentions that you should contact them in case any of the data is wrong.
Welp I will once again try for Hogwarts Legacy.
As for a meme, this isn’t mine and it’s kinda old but it really managed to stick in my head:
Thank You very much for this giveaway and your work moderating this community!
From reading the Magic Earth FAQ, I believe the user data actually isn’t used for traffic at all (at least the manually reported events certainly aren’t).
Edit: never mind I missed a later part in the FAQ:
Do you share data with third parties?
We send position data to our traffic provider to generate real-time traffic information. The data is anonymized on the phone, using a changing key (so it’s not linked to you), and it is deleted after 5 minutes.
The first quote is taken out of context:
Not only are privacy and data protection founding principles for both Mobifree and F-Droid, the use of tracking-based in-app advertising poses a moral dilemma as well. If someone wants to gain access to an app, but does not have the financial means to purchase it, they can use it at a different kind of price - their user data.
For me this reads as them explaining and condemning that dilemma, instead of considering it as an option for F-Droid.
This, I use a normal helmet in summer and my skihelmet in winter (although I originally got it for skiing).
Yes definitely, here’s my Steam ‘Local Multiplayer’ collection:
Nintendo also has some great couch co-op games,for example:
I also very much agree with the other commenter here, it’s such a shame that couch co-op is dying. The only ones still believing in it seem to be Nintendo.
Another game that’s fun to play is Unravel 2, but for me the Steam version had all sorts of problems so I ultimately ended up refunding it again.
If the main battery isn’t “meant to be replaced”, it will often act as the CMOS battery (e.g. MacBooks have been doing this since roughly 2008).
You can absolutely re-encode h265 video, but you can’t do it losslessly. In the end, it’s always a balance between quality and filesize.
I decided for myself, that 1080p30 crf28 h265 is good enough for home video, which lead to a 50% to 80% storage space reduction on videos from my phone.
If you don’t obsess over quality, I would highly recommend just messing around with ffmpeg a little bit and decide how much quality you’re willing to lose in order to save disk space. When you’re happy with your settings, you can either use ffmpeg itself or some fancy batch program like Tdarr to transcode all (or parts of) your video library.
My goto command is:
for file in *.mp4; do ffmpeg -i "$file" -movflags use_metadata_tags -map_metadata 0 -vcodec libx265 -crf 28 -vf scale=1920:-1 -r 30 "${file%.*}_transcoded.mp4"; done