• SwitchyandWitchy [she/her]@hexbear.net
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    2 months ago

    My current project is getting my 3d printing stuff all set up. I’m building a Voron V0.2 but I need to print some more parts for it, but other than that I only have an ender 3. So I’m modifying and tuning the Ender to produce high enough quality ABS/ASA parts for me to be satisfied using in the Voron. Not a difficult project per-se but I’m coming out of a depression that along with my day job taking time away led to a long period of not doing any projects, so this is meant to be a refresh for my project brain.

    I also want to build an e-bike with a somewhat unconventional drive-train, where it’s configured like a series hybrid: pedals drive a generator which drive the motor with a boost added by the batteries. I got the idea because most e-bikes either use a pedal cadence sensor to activate automatic assist (cheap but the assist power doesn’t scale linearly with input power which I don’t love) or a power meter (expensive because they use strain gauges to measure torque at the pedals, but nice linear proportional assist). I have no idea if this idea will be better overall, I’m trading a torque sensor for a whole ass motor which won’t be light or cheap either, but the idea of it scratches my brain in a nice way :) Also, it means I don’t need a whole multi-speed chain drive to achieve different gear ratios between the pedals and the wheel.

    Those little RISC-V micros seem sweet and the existence of open source toolchains for them makes me really happy! That sounds like a great project!

    • vovchik_ilich [he/him]@hexbear.net
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      2 months ago

      Damn, both projects are cool AF. I remember building a Prusa i3 clone some 10 years ago with a buddy, was nice (I regret that now, he turned out a Zionist lmao). And the bike thing sounds great, I’ve been trying to muster the courage to spot-weld 18650 batteries with nickel strips and a cheap aliexpress mini spot welder for such projects, but I’m afraid of setting myself on fire!!

      If you manage to get either of those running, you could make a post at c/DIY, I’d love to scroll through it :)

      • SwitchyandWitchy [she/her]@hexbear.net
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        2 months ago

        Spot welding batteries seems simple enough but not wanting to start a lithium fire is always good motivation to get cautious. I think I’ve heard that double pulse spot welders are the best way to do it?

        Do you have any projects for the batteries? Recycling cells or making custom packs?

        • vovchik_ilich [he/him]@hexbear.net
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          2 months ago

          Primarily making custom packs, just because you guarantee that you get good cells from a good supplier at a low price. When you buy ebike batteries, cheap ones are often with shitty cells, and expensive ones are just overpriced.

          • SwitchyandWitchy [she/her]@hexbear.net
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            2 months ago

            I think what I would get excited about is using different chemistries. Like LiFePO4 for the long lifespan and better temperature tolerance. Or LTO for super long lifespan and really fast charging. Most e-bike packs I see are standard NMC Li-ion chemistry. And yeah, a high quality LiFe pack I found was really expensive. I have some used/recycled LiFe battery packs that were cheap and had a low cycle count, they would probably be good candidates.

            • vovchik_ilich [he/him]@hexbear.net
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              2 months ago

              For LiFePO4 I’d just get one of these big bulky car-like batteries I guess, in a comparably more powerful ebike. Kinda turning it into a motorbike hahaha it’s just these big LiFePO4 batteries are so freaking cheap, they go for like 100€/kWh

              • SwitchyandWitchy [she/her]@hexbear.net
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                2 months ago

                Yeah I have some of those, a few kWhr of them actually XD. The voltage is low for what most e-bike motors are wound for though. The batteries i was talking about before are some smaller 25.6V batteries where i could easily throw three in series to get up to typical e-bike voltage. Plus the 12.8V car style batteries would be really bulky to put in a bike frame. I could always take them apart and use the cells though.

                • vovchik_ilich [he/him]@hexbear.net
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                  2 months ago

                  Hmmm yeah I never thought about the voltage. I guess that could be solved by buying a 24V pack or putting two smaller 12V ones in parallel. I just freaking love how affordable LiFePO4 batteries have become

                  • SwitchyandWitchy [she/her]@hexbear.net
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                    2 months ago

                    I’m guessing you meant to say in series? Yeah the monetary cost is great but I believe the human cost is the biggest positive, given that they don’t require cobalt.